White Rioja’s transformation has been nothing short of remarkable. A decade or so ago it was the frankly rather poor relation among Spain’s whites, overshadowed by Albariño, and later Verdejo. Today there has been a striking turnaround. The variety that came to dominate production was Viura (elsewhere known as Macabeo). It still accounts for two-thirds of the white plantings in the DOCa. However, Viura today needs planting in cooler sites, harvesting earlier, perhaps also blending with other varieties – all the usual practices to enhance freshness and fight the drabness. The Consejo Regulador has more recently permitted ‘foreigners’ such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo. There’s a strong case for saying that in most cases these varieties overwhelm the terroir with their own flavours. Tempranillo Blanco and Maturana Blanca are both recent additions to the permitted list: the former a genetic quirk found in the vineyard and the latter with a very long history in the region, though it has almost disappeared. The jury is still out on both of these; Tempranillo Blanco’s more recognisable name lends it market appeal, but Maturana Blanca, with its Chablis-like freshness, looks more complex and promising. Then, in small doses for ‘seasoning’, come Torrontés also known as Turruntés (not as in Argentina, but the distinct Albillo Mayor variety); and Malvasía, correctly Malvasía Riojana, and known as Alarije in Extremadura, and Subirat Parent in Penedès, where it sometimes turns up in Cava. Garnacha Blanca is a useful element in blends, giving texture without insipid florality. Practically all of the wines in my selection here are 100% Viura or Viura-dominant. What distinguishes them more clearly is their use of oak. Read more at https://www.decanter.com/premium/experts-choice-white-rioja-wines-398399/#i75DsZwMCgdFf5Po.99